Novi recepti

Najboljša testeninska jed v vsaki državi

Najboljša testeninska jed v vsaki državi


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Je vaš najljubši naredil rez?

Dreamstime

Če berete to, ste v nekem trenutku svojega življenja verjetno naredili testenine. Toda kot verjetno veste, obstaja velika razlika med špageti, ki ste jih naredili v študentski domovini, in testeninami, ki jih postrežejo v nekaterih najboljših ameriških restavracijah.

Najboljša testeninska jed v vsaki državni galeriji

Pri iskanju najboljše restavracijske testenine brez verig v vsaki državi in ​​Washingtonu smo najprej morali določiti parametre za jed iz testenin. Nasedli smo pri jedeh, ki so se vtisnile v italijansko občutljivost (Ramen lahko zagotovo štejete za jed iz testenin, vendar je to povsem drugačna razvrstitev), predvsem pa so morale biti testenine same po sebi; nismo menili, da je rižota testeninska jed, pa tudi jedi, ki jih postrežemo skupaj s testeninami, kot so piščančja parma ali telečja saltimboka. S temi jedmi so testenine zvezda predstave.

Na našem seznamu boste našli tortelline, špagete chitarra, pappardelle, linguine, lasagna agnolotti, špagete iz lignjevega črnila, njoke, raviole, strozzapretti in še veliko več neštetih stilov testenin, ki jih najdemo v Italiji. Nekateri so popolne interpretacije tradicionalnih jedi, nekateri so iznajdljivi izumi ustvarjalnih kuharjev. Konec koncev pa to dokazuje eno stvar: ne glede na to, kje ste, neverjeten krožnik testenin ni predaleč.


Najboljša testenina na svetu

V malo znanem italijanskem Abruzzu peščica legendarnih tovarn proizvaja izjemne suhe testenine. Teh osem klasičnih receptov dokazuje, zakaj je tako dobro.

KUHANJE TESTENINE ZA NAŠ POREDNI OBROK je bila resna zadeva v Abruzzu, regiji Italije, kjer sem odraščal. Pri petih letih sem bil dodeljen uri za testenine. Vsak dan opoldne bi stal ob strateško postavljenem oknu in čakal na prihod strica Filipa. Takoj, ko se je pojavil na vogalu trga, sem stekel v kuhinjo in naročil potopitev testenin v vrelo vodo, ki je bila pripravljena.

Testenine, ki so večino dni šle v naš lonec, so bile posušene iz lokalne tovarne. Čeprav je Annina, naša družinska kuharica, ob posebnih priložnostih (pogosto z bogatim, dolgo kuhanim) kuhala sveže testenine krpa ù ali nadev), tako kot vsi Italijani, se tudi ona obrne k suhim testeninam, kadar koli želi zavreti lahek obrok. Abruzzo proizvaja najboljše suhe testenine kjer koli-in jih izvaža po vsem svetu.

Kljub slavi svojih testenin je sam Abruzzo malo znan. Tako kot večina Italije je tudi ta regija vzhodno od Rima polna vinogradov, oljk, rimskih ruševin in romanskih cerkva. Območje ob Adriji

tic vsekakor privablja popotnike v svoja družinsko usmerjena letovišča, vendar so deli Abruzza tako pastirski, da pastirji še vedno črede držijo po starodavnih ovčjih stezah, glave pa se obrnejo, ko se v mesto pripelje turistični avtobus. Abruzzo od Rima ločujejo najvišji vrhovi Apeninov, in te gore pojasnjujejo, zakaj je regija imela tako malo obiskovalcev (tam & aposs zdaj avtostrada iz Rima) in tudi zakaj so testenine tako dobre (narejene iz sveže in čiste gorske vode).

Pred kratkim sem se odpravil v mesto Fara San Martino, epicentar suhih testenin v Abruzzu, kjer se ob vznožju gorovja Maiella zbirajo tovarne testenin. Nekatere od teh rastlin so velike in visokotehnološke, dnevno proizvajajo na stotine ton testenin, druge pa so manjše dejavnosti, kjer bi delavci lahko ročno nadevali pakete špagetov. Ne glede na to, ali je tovarna velika ali majhna, "voda je glavna stvar," pravi Miro Bianchi, direktor v Delverdeju, ki je lani v Ameriko izvozilo več kot 10.000 ton testenin. Od ustanovitve Delverdeja leta 1970 je proizvajalec testenin uporabljal samo vodo iz lokalnega izvira. Toda voda je le eden od številnih dejavnikov, ki določajo kakovost. De Cecco, ki je bil odprt v Fara San Martinu leta 1887, je zaslužen tudi za posebno mešanico zdrob iz moke z visoko vsebnostjo glutena. Proizvajalec testenin, drugi največji v Italiji (za Barillo) in še en velik izvoznik, kupuje moko iz več držav. Kombinacija različnih vrst v pravih razmerjih ustvari želeno aromo, barvo in konsistenco.

V velikih tovarnah Abruzzo & aposs se izkažejo okusne testenine, ki so & aposs poceni in na voljo. Ko pa želim testenine, ki imajo pravi pšenični okus ali tistega, ki se lahko res prileže na omako, kupim drago vrsto, proizvedeno pri manjših, bolj obrtniških operacijah. Tovarna Giuseppe Cocco še vedno izdeluje suhe testenine tako, kot so jih delali pred 50 leti. Stroji mešajo moko in vodo v štirih korakih v ritmu, ki je približno enak ročnemu gnetenju, nato pa testo počasi potiskajo skozi perforirane bronaste matrice ali bloke, tako da testenine prevzamejo grobo teksturo. Medtem ko nekatere velike tovarne sušijo testenine z visoko toploto, da jih posušijo, obrtniške uporabljajo "quotsolar" temperaturo, ki posnema nežno sušenje, do katerega bi prišlo, če bi testenine postavili na sonce.

Testenine Gianfranca Zaccagnija v Gissiju, približno uro jugovzhodno od Fare San Martino, postavljajo standard za obrtne sorte. Čeprav je blagovno znamko kupil drug domačin pastificio, Nonna Luisa, pred tremi leti je Gianfranco še vedno glavni izdelovalec testenin v tovarni, kar se je malo spremenilo, odkar ga je oče odprl v tridesetih letih. Toda Gianfranco meni, da je pravi ustanovitelj njegove družine in apossove dinastije testenin njegov prapraded. V sedemdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja je imel stari Zaccagni svojo kmetijo, vendar je skrbel tudi za svoje sosede, signori ki so živeli v Rimu, Neaplju in Spoletu ter prišli v Abruzzo s kočijami, da bi pregledali njihove posesti in lovili. Zaccagni je svoje obiskovalce zabaval z ročno izdelano laganelle in sagne, tipične abruzzeške testenine, podobne pappardelle, in jih nato posušile, da so jih odnesle nazaj v mesto.

Gianfranco je tudi svetovalec blagovne znamke Nonna Luisa & aposs Due Pastori iz sodobne, obsežnejše operacije. Tako stare kot nove tovarne proizvajajo odlične testenine in upam, da jih bodo nekega dne izvozili v ZDA. "Ko so testenine dobre," ponosno pravi Gianfranco, "ljudje opazijo testenine in ne omake." In ko so testenine zelo dobre, ljudje opazijo tudi talent kuharja.

Gianfranco in apossove besede so me spomnile na Annino, mojo družinsko in apossovo kuharico v Abruzzu. Spomnim se, da se je Annina, ko je popoldne zaokroževal trg, Annina lotila dela, moja babica pa je vodila vse poteze. Na moj signal se je Annina preselila v lonec, ki je bil dovolj velik, da so testenine lahko plavale, vendar dovolj lahek, da je voda lahko hitro zavrela. V vrelo vodo je dodala grobo morsko sol in nato vmešala testenine, ki jih je na hitro premešala, medtem ko je babica intonirala, & quot; Prekrila lonec. Pokrijte lonec. & Quot Oborožena z debelimi držali za lončke se odpravi do umivalnika, da odcedi testenine, nato pa jih zlije v plitvo posodo s plastjo omake, ki pokriva dno. Potem ko je testenine prelila z več omake, je milostno dodala majhno zajemalko omake na vrh & quot; za lepoto & quot;, kot bi rekla moja babica, in morda škropljenje sira. Jed ni bila izpopolnjena, vendar je bila slastna-najbolje posušene testenine.

Naslednji recepti za testenine so avtorica kuharske knjige Anna Teresa Callen in direktorica kuhinje za jedilnico FOOD & amp WINE Marcia Kiesel.

Besedilo in nekaj receptov Anna Teresa Callen, učiteljice kuhanja in avtorice štirih kuharskih knjig, med drugim Hrana in Spomini na Abruzzo, Italijo in apostolovo pastoralno deželo (Macmillan).


Najboljša testenina na svetu

V malo znanem italijanskem Abruzzu peščica legendarnih tovarn proizvaja izjemne suhe testenine. Teh osem klasičnih receptov dokazuje, zakaj je tako dobro.

KUHANJE TESTENINE ZA NAŠ POREDNI OBROK je bila resna zadeva v Abruzzu, regiji Italije, kjer sem odraščal. Pri petih letih sem bil dodeljen uri za testenine. Vsak dan opoldne bi stal ob strateško postavljenem oknu in čakal na prihod strica Filipa. Takoj, ko se je pojavil na vogalu trga, sem stekel v kuhinjo in naročil potopitev testenin v vrelo vodo, ki je bila pripravljena.

Testenine, ki so večino dni šle v naš lonec, so bile posušene iz lokalne tovarne. Čeprav je Annina, naša družinska kuharica, ob posebnih priložnostih (pogosto z bogatim, dolgo kuhanim) kuhala sveže testenine krpa ù ali nadev), tako kot vsi Italijani se zateče k posušenim testeninam, kadar koli želi zavreti lahek obrok. Abruzzo proizvaja najboljše suhe testenine kjer koli-in jih izvaža po vsem svetu.

Kljub slavi svojih testenin je sam Abruzzo malo znan. Tako kot večina Italije je tudi ta regija vzhodno od Rima polna vinogradov, oljk, rimskih ruševin in romanskih cerkva. Območje ob Adriji

tic vsekakor privablja popotnike v svoja družinsko usmerjena letovišča, vendar so deli Abruzza tako pastirski, da pastirji še vedno črede držijo po starodavnih ovčjih stezah, glave pa se obrnejo, ko se v mesto pripelje turistični avtobus. Abruzzo od Rima ločujejo najvišji vrhovi Apeninov, in te gore pojasnjujejo, zakaj je regija imela tako malo obiskovalcev (tam & aposs zdaj avtostrada iz Rima) in zakaj so testenine tako dobre (narejene iz sveže in čiste gorske vode).

Pred kratkim sem se odpravil v mesto Fara San Martino, epicentar suhih testenin v Abruzzu, kjer se ob vznožju gorovja Maiella zbirajo tovarne testenin. Nekatere od teh rastlin so velike in visokotehnološke, dnevno proizvajajo na stotine ton testenin, druge pa so manjše dejavnosti, kjer bi delavci lahko ročno nadevali pakete špagetov. Ne glede na to, ali je tovarna velika ali majhna, "voda je glavna stvar," pravi Miro Bianchi, direktor v Delverdeju, ki je lani v Ameriko izvozilo več kot 10.000 ton testenin. Od ustanovitve Delverdeja leta 1970 je proizvajalec testenin uporabljal samo vodo iz lokalnega izvira. Toda voda je le eden od številnih dejavnikov, ki določajo kakovost. De Cecco, ki je bil odprt leta 1887 v Fara San Martinu, je zaslužen tudi za posebno mešanico zdrob iz moke z visoko vsebnostjo glutena. Proizvajalec testenin, drugi največji v Italiji (za Barillo) in še en velik izvoznik, kupuje moko iz več držav. Kombinacija različnih vrst v pravih razmerjih ustvari želeno aromo, barvo in konsistenco.

V velikih tovarnah Abruzzo & aposs se izkažejo okusne testenine, ki so & aposs poceni in na voljo. Ko pa želim testenine, ki imajo pravi pšenični okus ali tistega, ki se lahko resnično oprime omake, kupim drago vrsto, ki je proizvedena pri manjših, bolj obrtniških operacijah. Tovarna Giuseppe Cocco še vedno izdeluje suhe testenine tako, kot so jih delali pred 50 leti. Stroji mešajo moko in vodo v štirih korakih v ritmu, ki je približno enak ročnemu gnetenju, nato pa testo počasi potiskajo skozi perforirane bronaste matrice ali bloke, tako da testenine prevzamejo grobo teksturo. Medtem ko nekatere velike tovarne sušijo testenine z visoko toploto, da jih posušijo, obrtne uporabljajo "kvotilarno" temperaturo, ki posnema nežno sušenje, ki bi se zgodilo, če bi testenine postavili na sonce.

Testenine Gianfranca Zaccagnija v Gissiju, približno uro jugovzhodno od Fare San Martino, postavljajo standard za obrtne sorte. Čeprav je blagovno znamko kupil drug domačin pastificio, Nonna Luisa, pred tremi leti je Gianfranco še vedno glavni izdelovalec testenin v tovarni, kar se je malo spremenilo, odkar ga je oče odprl v tridesetih letih. Toda Gianfranco meni, da je pravi ustanovitelj njegove družine in apossove dinastije testenin njegov prapraded. V sedemdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja je imel stari Zaccagni svojo kmetijo, vendar je skrbel tudi za svoje sosede, signori ki so živeli v Rimu, Neaplju in Spoletu ter prišli v Abruzzo s kočijami, da bi pregledali njihove posesti in lovili. Zaccagni je svoje obiskovalce zabaval z ročno izdelano laganelle in sagne, tipične abruzzeške testenine, podobne pappardelle, in jih nato posušile, da so jih odnesle nazaj v mesto.

Gianfranco je tudi svetovalec blagovne znamke Nonna Luisa & aposs Due Pastori iz sodobne operacije z večjim obsegom. Tako stare kot nove tovarne proizvajajo odlične testenine in upam, da jih bodo nekega dne izvozili v ZDA. "Ko so testenine dobre," ponosno pravi Gianfranco, "ljudje opazijo testenine in ne omake." In ko so testenine zelo dobre, ljudje opazijo tudi talent kuharja.

Gianfranco in apossove besede so me spomnile na Annino, mojo družinsko in apossovo kuharico v Abruzzu. Spomnim se, da se je Annina, ko je popoldne zaokroževal trg, Annina lotila dela, moja babica pa je vodila vse poteze. Na moj signal se je Annina preselila v lonec, ki je bil dovolj velik, da so testenine lahko plavale, vendar dovolj lahek, da je voda lahko hitro zavrela. V vrelo vodo je dodala grobo morsko sol in nato vmešala testenine, ki jih je na hitro premešala, medtem ko je babica intonirala, & quot; Prekrila lonec. Pokrijte lonec. & Quot Oborožena z debelimi držali za lončke se odpravi do umivalnika, da odcedi testenine, nato pa jih zlije v plitvo posodo s plastjo omake, ki pokriva dno. Potem ko je testenine prelila z več omake, je milostno dodala majhno zajemalko omake na vrh & quot; za lepoto & quot;, kot bi rekla moja babica, in morda škropljenje sira. Jed ni bila izpopolnjena, vendar je bila slastna-najbolje posušene testenine.

Naslednji recepti za testenine so avtorica kuharske knjige Anna Teresa Callen in direktorica kuhinje za kuhinjo FOOD & amp WINE, Marcia Kiesel.

Besedilo in nekaj receptov Anna Teresa Callen, učiteljice kuhanja in avtorice štirih kuharskih knjig, med drugim Hrana in Spomini na Abruzzo, Italijo in apostolovo pastoralno deželo (Macmillan).


Najboljša testenina na svetu

V malo znanem italijanskem Abruzzu peščica legendarnih tovarn proizvaja izjemne suhe testenine. Teh osem klasičnih receptov dokazuje, zakaj je tako dobro.

KUHANJE TESTENINE ZA NAŠ POREDNI OBROK je bila resna zadeva v Abruzzu, regiji Italije, kjer sem odraščal. Pri petih letih sem bil dodeljen uri za testenine. Vsak dan opoldne bi stal ob strateško postavljenem oknu in čakal na prihod strica Filipa. Takoj, ko se je pojavil na vogalu trga, sem stekel v kuhinjo in naročil potopitev testenin v vrelo vodo, ki je bila pripravljena.

Testenine, ki so večino dni šle v naš lonec, so bile posušene iz lokalne tovarne. Čeprav je Annina, naša družinska kuharica, ob posebnih priložnostih (pogosto z bogatim, dolgo kuhanim) kuhala sveže testenine krpa ù ali nadev), tako kot vsi Italijani se zateče k posušenim testeninam, kadar koli želi zavreti lahek obrok. Abruzzo proizvaja najboljše suhe testenine kjer koli-in jih izvaža po vsem svetu.

Kljub slavi svojih testenin je sam Abruzzo malo znan. Tako kot večina Italije je tudi ta regija vzhodno od Rima polna vinogradov, oljk, rimskih ruševin in romanskih cerkva. Območje ob Adriji

tic vsekakor privablja popotnike v svoja družinsko usmerjena letovišča, vendar so deli Abruzza tako pastirski, da pastirji še vedno črede držijo po starodavnih ovčjih stezah, glave pa se obrnejo, ko se v mesto pripelje turistični avtobus. Abruzzo od Rima ločujejo najvišji vrhovi Apeninov, in te gore pojasnjujejo, zakaj je regija imela tako malo obiskovalcev (tam & aposs zdaj avtostrada iz Rima) in zakaj so testenine tako dobre (narejene iz sveže in čiste gorske vode).

Pred kratkim sem se odpravil v mesto Fara San Martino, epicentar suhih testenin v Abruzzu, kjer se ob vznožju gorovja Maiella zbirajo tovarne testenin. Nekatere od teh rastlin so velike in visokotehnološke, dnevno proizvajajo na stotine ton testenin, druge pa so manjše dejavnosti, kjer bi delavci lahko ročno nadevali pakete špagetov. Ne glede na to, ali je tovarna velika ali majhna, "voda je glavna stvar," pravi Miro Bianchi, direktor družbe Delverde, ki je lani v Ameriko izvozilo več kot 10.000 ton testenin. Od ustanovitve Delverdeja leta 1970 je proizvajalec testenin uporabljal samo vodo iz lokalnega izvira. Toda voda je le eden od številnih dejavnikov, ki določajo kakovost. De Cecco, ki je bil odprt leta 1887 v Fara San Martinu, je zaslužen tudi za posebno mešanico zdrob iz moke z visoko vsebnostjo glutena. Proizvajalec testenin, drugi največji v Italiji (za Barillo) in še en velik izvoznik, kupuje moko iz več držav. Kombinacija različnih vrst v pravih razmerjih ustvari želeno aromo, barvo in konsistenco.

V velikih tovarnah Abruzzo & aposs se izkažejo okusne testenine, ki so & aposs poceni in na voljo. Ko pa želim testenine, ki imajo pravi pšenični okus ali tistega, ki se lahko res prileže na omako, kupim drago vrsto, proizvedeno pri manjših, bolj obrtniških operacijah. Tovarna Giuseppe Cocco še vedno izdeluje suhe testenine tako, kot so jih delali pred 50 leti. Stroji mešajo moko in vodo v štirih korakih v ritmu, ki je približno enak ročnemu gnetenju, nato pa testo počasi potiskajo skozi perforirane bronaste matrice ali bloke, tako da testenine prevzamejo grobo teksturo. Medtem ko nekatere velike tovarne sušijo testenine z visoko toploto, da jih posušijo, obrtniške uporabljajo "quotsolar" temperaturo, ki posnema nežno sušenje, do katerega bi prišlo, če bi testenine postavili na sonce.

Testenine Gianfranca Zaccagnija v Gissiju, približno uro jugovzhodno od Fare San Martino, postavljajo standard za obrtne sorte. Čeprav je blagovno znamko kupil drug domačin pastificio, Nonna Luisa, pred tremi leti je Gianfranco še vedno glavni izdelovalec testenin v tovarni, kar se je malo spremenilo, odkar ga je oče odprl v tridesetih letih. Toda Gianfranco meni, da je pravi ustanovitelj njegove družine in apossove dinastije testenin njegov prapraded. V sedemdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja je imel stari Zaccagni svojo kmetijo, vendar je skrbel tudi za svoje sosede, signori ki so živeli v Rimu, Neaplju in Spoletu ter prišli v Abruzzo s kočijami, da bi pregledali njihove posesti in lovili. Zaccagni je svoje obiskovalce zabaval z ročno izdelano laganelle in sagne, tipične abruzzeške testenine, podobne pappardelle, in jih nato posušile, da so jih odnesle nazaj v mesto.

Gianfranco je tudi svetovalec blagovne znamke Nonna Luisa & aposs Due Pastori iz sodobne operacije z večjim obsegom. Tako stare kot nove tovarne proizvajajo odlične testenine in upam, da jih bodo nekega dne izvozili v ZDA. "Ko so testenine dobre," ponosno pravi Gianfranco, "ljudje opazijo testenine in ne omake." In ko so testenine zelo dobre, ljudje opazijo tudi talent kuharja.

Gianfranco in apossove besede so me spomnile na Annino, mojo družinsko in apossovo kuharico v Abruzzu. Spomnim se, da je Annina, ko je popoldne obhajal trg, Annina prišla na delo, moja babica pa je vodila vse poteze. Na moj signal se je Annina preselila v lonec, ki je bil dovolj velik, da so testenine lahko plavale, vendar dovolj lahek, da je voda lahko hitro zavrela. V vrelo vodo je dodala grobo morsko sol in nato vmešala testenine, ki jih je na hitro premešala, medtem ko je babica intonirala, & quot; Prekrila lonec. Pokrijte lonec. & Quot Oborožena z debelimi držali za lončke se odpravi do umivalnika, da odcedi testenine, nato pa jih zlije v plitvo posodo s plastjo omake, ki pokriva dno. Potem ko je testenine prelila z več omake, je milostno dodala majhno zajemalko omake na vrh & quot; za lepoto & quot;, kot bi rekla moja babica, in morda škropljenje sira. Jed ni bila izpopolnjena, vendar je bila slastna-najbolje posušene testenine.

Naslednji recepti za testenine so avtorica kuharske knjige Anna Teresa Callen in direktorica kuhinje za jedilnico FOOD & amp WINE Marcia Kiesel.

Besedilo in nekaj receptov Anna Teresa Callen, učiteljice kuhanja in avtorice štirih kuharskih knjig, med drugim Hrana in Spomini na Abruzzo, Italijo in apostolovo pastoralno deželo (Macmillan).


Najboljša testenina na svetu

V malo znanem italijanskem Abruzzu peščica legendarnih tovarn proizvaja izjemne suhe testenine. Teh osem klasičnih receptov dokazuje, zakaj je tako dobro.

KUHANJE TESTENINE ZA NAŠ POREDNI OBROK je bila resna zadeva v Abruzzu, regiji Italije, kjer sem odraščal. Pri petih letih sem bil dodeljen uri za testenine. Vsak dan opoldne bi stal ob strateško postavljenem oknu in čakal na prihod strica Filipa. Takoj, ko se je pojavil na vogalu trga, sem stekel v kuhinjo in naročil potopitev testenin v vrelo vodo, ki je bila pripravljena.

Testenine, ki so večino dni šle v naš lonec, so bile posušene iz lokalne tovarne. Čeprav je Annina, naša družinska kuharica, ob posebnih priložnostih (pogosto z bogatim, dolgo kuhanim) kuhala sveže testenine krpa ù ali nadev), tako kot vsi Italijani, se tudi ona obrne k suhim testeninam, kadar koli želi zavreti lahek obrok. Abruzzo proizvaja najboljše suhe testenine kjer koli-in jih izvaža po vsem svetu.

Kljub slavi svojih testenin je sam Abruzzo malo znan. Tako kot večina Italije je tudi ta regija vzhodno od Rima polna vinogradov, oljk, rimskih ruševin in romanskih cerkva. Območje ob Adriji

tic vsekakor privablja popotnike v svoja družinsko usmerjena letovišča, vendar so deli Abruzza tako pastirski, da pastirji še vedno črede držijo po starodavnih ovčjih stezah, glave pa se obrnejo, ko se v mesto pripelje turistični avtobus. Abruzzo od Rima ločujejo najvišji vrhovi Apeninov, in te gore pojasnjujejo, zakaj je regija imela tako malo obiskovalcev (tam & aposs zdaj avtostrada iz Rima) in tudi zakaj so testenine tako dobre (narejene iz sveže in čiste gorske vode).

Pred kratkim sem se odpravil v mesto Fara San Martino, epicentar suhih testenin v Abruzzu, kjer se ob vznožju gorovja Maiella zbirajo tovarne testenin. Nekatere od teh rastlin so velike in visokotehnološke, dnevno proizvajajo na stotine ton testenin, druge pa so manjše dejavnosti, kjer bi delavci lahko ročno nadevali pakete špagetov. Ne glede na to, ali je tovarna velika ali majhna, "voda je glavna stvar," pravi Miro Bianchi, direktor družbe Delverde, ki je lani v Ameriko izvozilo več kot 10.000 ton testenin. Od ustanovitve Delverdeja leta 1970 je proizvajalec testenin uporabljal samo vodo iz lokalnega izvira. Toda voda je le eden od številnih dejavnikov, ki določajo kakovost. De Cecco, ki je bil odprt leta 1887 v Fara San Martinu, je zaslužen tudi za posebno mešanico zdrob iz moke z visoko vsebnostjo glutena. Proizvajalec testenin, drugi največji v Italiji (za Barillo) in še en velik izvoznik, kupuje moko iz več držav. Kombinacija različnih vrst v pravih razmerjih ustvari želeno aromo, barvo in konsistenco.

V velikih tovarnah Abruzzo & aposs se izkažejo okusne testenine, ki so & aposs poceni in na voljo. Ko pa želim testenine, ki imajo pravi pšenični okus ali tistega, ki se lahko res prileže na omako, kupim drago vrsto, proizvedeno pri manjših, bolj obrtniških operacijah. Tovarna Giuseppe Cocco še vedno izdeluje suhe testenine tako, kot so jih delali pred 50 leti. Stroji mešajo moko in vodo v štirih korakih v ritmu, ki je približno enak ročnemu gnetenju, nato pa testo počasi potiskajo skozi perforirane bronaste matrice ali bloke, tako da testenine prevzamejo grobo teksturo. Medtem ko nekatere velike tovarne sušijo testenine z visoko toploto, da jih posušijo, obrtne uporabljajo "kvotilarno" temperaturo, ki posnema nežno sušenje, ki bi se zgodilo, če bi testenine postavili na sonce.

Testenine Gianfranca Zaccagnija v Gissiju, približno uro jugovzhodno od Fare San Martino, postavljajo standard za obrtne sorte. Čeprav je blagovno znamko kupil drug domačin pastificio, Nonna Luisa, pred tremi leti je Gianfranco še vedno glavni izdelovalec testenin v tovarni, kar se je malo spremenilo, odkar ga je oče odprl v tridesetih letih. Toda Gianfranco meni, da je pravi ustanovitelj njegove družine in apossove dinastije testenin njegov prapraded. V sedemdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja je imel stari Zaccagni svojo kmetijo, vendar je skrbel tudi za svoje sosede, signori ki so živeli v Rimu, Neaplju in Spoletu ter prišli v Abruzzo s kočijami, da bi pregledali njihove posesti in lovili. Zaccagni je svoje obiskovalce zabaval z ročno izdelano laganelle in sagne, tipične abruzzeške testenine, podobne pappardelle, in jih nato posušile, da so jih odnesle nazaj v mesto.

Gianfranco je tudi svetovalec blagovne znamke Nonna Luisa & aposs Due Pastori iz sodobne, obsežnejše operacije. Tako stare kot nove tovarne proizvajajo odlične testenine in upam, da jih bodo nekega dne izvozili v ZDA. "Ko so testenine dobre," ponosno pravi Gianfranco, "ljudje opazijo testenine in ne omake." In ko so testenine zelo dobre, ljudje opazijo tudi talent kuharja.

Gianfranco in apossove besede so me spomnile na Annino, mojo družinsko in apossovo kuharico v Abruzzu. Spomnim se, da se je Annina, ko je popoldne zaokroževal trg, Annina lotila dela, moja babica pa je vodila vse poteze. Na moj signal se je Annina preselila v lonec, ki je bil dovolj velik, da so testenine lahko plavale, vendar dovolj lahek, da je voda lahko hitro zavrela. V vrelo vodo je dodala grobo morsko sol in nato vmešala testenine, ki jih je na hitro premešala, medtem ko je babica intonirala, & quot; Prekrila lonec. Pokrijte lonec. & Quot Oborožena z debelimi držali za lončke se odpravi do umivalnika, da odcedi testenine, nato pa jih zlije v plitvo posodo s plastjo omake, ki pokriva dno. Potem, ko je testenine prelila z več omake, je milostno dodala majhno zajemalko omake na vrh & quot; za lepoto & quot;, kot bi rekla moja babica, in morda škropljenje sira. Jed ni bila izpopolnjena, vendar je bila okusna-posušene testenine v najboljšem primeru.

Naslednji recepti za testenine so avtorica kuharske knjige Anna Teresa Callen in direktorica kuhinje za kuhinjo FOOD & amp WINE, Marcia Kiesel.

Besedilo in nekaj receptov Anna Teresa Callen, učiteljice kuhanja in avtorice štirih kuharskih knjig, med drugim Hrana in Spomini na Abruzzo, Italijo in apostolovo pastoralno deželo (Macmillan).


Najboljša testenina na svetu

V malo znanem italijanskem Abruzzu peščica legendarnih tovarn proizvaja izjemne suhe testenine. Teh osem klasičnih receptov dokazuje, zakaj je tako dobro.

KUHANJE TESTENINE ZA NAŠ POREDNI OBROK je bila resna zadeva v Abruzzu, regiji Italije, kjer sem odraščal. Pri petih letih sem bil dodeljen uri za testenine. Vsak dan opoldne bi stal ob strateško postavljenem oknu in čakal na prihod strica Filipa. Takoj, ko se je pojavil na vogalu trga, sem stekel v kuhinjo in naročil potopitev testenin v vrelo vodo, ki je bila pripravljena.

Testenine, ki so večino dni šle v naš lonec, so bile posušene iz lokalne tovarne. Čeprav je Annina, naša družinska kuharica, ob posebnih priložnostih (pogosto z bogatim, dolgo kuhanim) kuhala sveže testenine krpa ù ali nadev), tako kot vsi Italijani, se tudi ona obrne k suhim testeninam, kadar koli želi zavreti lahek obrok. Abruzzo proizvaja najboljše suhe testenine kjer koli-in jih izvaža po vsem svetu.

Kljub slavi svojih testenin je sam Abruzzo malo znan. Tako kot večina Italije je tudi ta regija vzhodno od Rima polna vinogradov, oljk, rimskih ruševin in romanskih cerkva. Območje ob Adriji

tic vsekakor privablja popotnike v svoja družinsko usmerjena letovišča, vendar so deli Abruzza tako pastirski, da pastirji še vedno črede držijo po starodavnih ovčjih stezah, glave pa se obrnejo, ko se v mesto pripelje turistični avtobus. Abruzzo od Rima ločujejo najvišji vrhovi Apeninov, in te gore pojasnjujejo, zakaj je regija imela tako malo obiskovalcev (tam & aposs zdaj avtostrada iz Rima) in tudi zakaj so testenine tako dobre (narejene iz sveže in čiste gorske vode).

Pred kratkim sem se odpravil v mesto Fara San Martino, epicentar suhih testenin v Abruzzu, kjer se ob vznožju gorovja Maiella zbirajo tovarne testenin. Nekatere od teh rastlin so velike in visokotehnološke, dnevno proizvajajo na stotine ton testenin, druge pa so manjše dejavnosti, kjer bi delavci lahko ročno nadevali pakete špagetov. Ne glede na to, ali je tovarna velika ali majhna, "voda je glavna stvar," pravi Miro Bianchi, direktor družbe Delverde, ki je lani v Ameriko izvozilo več kot 10.000 ton testenin. Od ustanovitve Delverdeja leta 1970 je proizvajalec testenin uporabljal samo vodo iz lokalnega izvira. Toda voda je le eden od številnih dejavnikov, ki določajo kakovost. De Cecco, ki je bil odprt v Fara San Martinu leta 1887, je zaslužen tudi za posebno mešanico zdrob iz moke z visoko vsebnostjo glutena. Proizvajalec testenin, drugi največji v Italiji (za Barillo) in še en velik izvoznik, kupuje moko iz več držav. Kombinacija različnih vrst v pravih razmerjih ustvari želeno aromo, barvo in konsistenco.

V velikih tovarnah Abruzzo & aposs se izkažejo okusne testenine, ki so & aposs poceni in na voljo. Ko pa želim testenine, ki imajo pravi pšenični okus ali tistega, ki se lahko res prileže na omako, kupim drago vrsto, ki je proizvedena pri manjših, bolj obrtniških operacijah. V tovarni Giuseppe Cocco še vedno izdelujejo suhe testenine, kot so jih delali pred 50 leti. Stroji mešajo moko in vodo v štirih korakih v ritmu, ki je približno enak ročnemu gnetenju, nato pa testo počasi potiskajo skozi perforirane bronaste matrice ali bloke, tako da testenine prevzamejo grobo teksturo. Medtem ko nekatere velike tovarne sušijo testenine z visoko toploto, da jih posušijo, obrtniške uporabljajo "quotsolar" temperaturo, ki posnema nežno sušenje, do katerega bi prišlo, če bi testenine postavili na sonce.

Testenine Gianfranca Zaccagnija v Gissiju, približno uro jugovzhodno od Fare San Martino, postavljajo standard za obrtne sorte. Čeprav je blagovno znamko kupil drug domačin pastificio, Nonna Luisa, pred tremi leti je Gianfranco še vedno glavni izdelovalec testenin v tovarni, kar se je malo spremenilo, odkar ga je oče odprl v tridesetih letih. But Gianfranco considers the real founder of his family&aposs pasta dynasty to be his great-great-grandfather. Back in the 1870s, Old Zaccagni had his own farm, but he also tended those of his neighbors, the signori who lived in Rome, Naples and Spoleto and came to Abruzzo in horse-drawn coaches to inspect their properties and hunt. Zaccagni entertained his visitors with handmade laganelle in sagne, typical Abruzzese pastas similar to pappardelle, and then dried some for them to take back to the city.

Gianfranco is also a consultant for Nonna Luisa&aposs Due Pastori brand, from a modern, higher-volume operation. Both the old and the new factories produce excellent pasta, and I&aposm hopeful that one day these will be exported to the United States. "When the pasta is good," Gianfranco says proudly, "people note the pasta and not the sauce." And when the pasta is very good, people also note the talent of the cook.

Gianfranco&aposs words made me think of Annina, my family&aposs cook in Abruzzo. I remember that as Uncle Filippo rounded the piazza in the afternoon, Annina would get down to work, with my grandmother orchestrating all the moves. At my signal, Annina would move to the pot, which was large enough to let the pasta swim around but light enough to allow the water to come to a boil quickly. She&aposd add coarse sea salt to the boiling water and then toss in the pasta, giving it a quick stir while my grandmother intoned, "Cover the pot. Cover the pot." Annina let the pasta cook for several minutes, then tasted it a few times to make sure it was al dente before pouring a cup of cold water into the pot to stop the cooking. Armed with thick pot holders, she&aposd race to the sink to drain the pasta, then pour it into a shallow bowl with a layer of sauce covering the bottom. After she had tossed the pasta with more sauce, she&aposd graciously add a small ladle of sauce to the top "for beauty," as my grandmother would say, and perhaps a sprinkling of cheese. The dish wasn&apost elaborate, but it was delicious--dried pasta at its very best.

The following pasta recipes are from cookbook author Anna Teresa Callen and FOOD & WINE Associate Test Kitchen Director Marcia Kiesel.

Text and some recipes by Anna Teresa Callen, a cooking teacher and the author of four cookbooks, including Hrana in Memories of Abruzzo, Italy&aposs Pastoral Land (Macmillan).


The World's Best Pasta

In Italy's little-known Abruzzo, a handful of legendary factories produce extraordinary dried pasta. These eight classic recipes show why it's so good.

COOKING THE PASTA FOR OUR MIDDAY MEAL was a serious matter in Abruzzo, the region of Italy where I grew up. At age five, I was assigned to the pasta watch. Every day at noon I would stand at a strategically placed window and wait for the arrival of Uncle Filippo. The moment he appeared at the corner of the piazza, I would run to the kitchen and order the plunging of the pasta into the boiling water, which stood at the ready.

The pasta going into our pot on most days was the dried type from a local factory. Although Annina, our family cook, would make her own fresh pasta on special occasions (often with a rich, long-simmered ragù or a stuffing), like all Italians she&aposd turn to dried pasta whenever she wanted to toss together a light meal. And Abruzzo produces some of the best dried pasta anywhere--and exports it around the world.

Despite the fame of its pasta, Abruzzo itself is little known. Like most of Italy, this region just east of Rome is packed with vineyards, olive trees, Roman ruins and Romanesque churches. The area along the Adria

tic does attract vacationers to its family-oriented resorts, yet parts of Abruzzo are so pastoral that shepherds still herd their flocks along ancient sheep tracks and heads turn when a tour bus pulls into town. Abruzzo is separated from Rome by the highest peaks of the Apennines, and those mountains explain why the region has had so few visitors (there&aposs now an autostrada from Rome) and also why the pasta is so good (it&aposs made with crisp, clean mountain water).

Recently I made a trip to the town of Fara San Martino, the epicenter of dried pasta in Abruzzo, where pasta factories cluster at the foot of the Maiella Mountains. Some of these plants are large and high tech, producing hundreds of tons of pasta a day others are small-scale operations where workers might stuff packages of spaghetti by hand. Whether the factory is big or little, "the water is the main thing," says Miro Bianchi, a manager at Delverde, which last year exported over 10,000 tons of pasta to America. Ever since Delverde was founded in 1970, the pasta maker has used only water from a local spring. But water is just one of several factors that determine quality. De Cecco, which opened in Fara San Martino in 1887, also credits its special blend of high-gluten semolina flours. The pasta maker, the second biggest in Italy (behind Barilla) and another major exporter, buys its flours from several countries. Combining the different kinds in the right proportions creates the desired aroma, color and consistency.

Abruzzo&aposs large factories turn out delicious pasta that&aposs low-priced and readily available. However, when I want a pasta that has a true wheaty flavor or one that can really grab on to a sauce, I buy the expensive kind produced at smaller, more artisanal operations. The Giuseppe Cocco factory still makes dried pasta the way it did 50 years ago. Machines mix the flour and water in four steps, in a rhythm that approximates hand kneading, then slowly force the dough through perforated bronze dies, or blocks, so that the pasta takes on the dies&apos rough texture. While some large factories blast the pasta with high heat to dry it, the artisanal ones use "solar" temperature, which mimics the gentle drying that would occur if the pasta were set out in the sun.

The pasta of Gianfranco Zaccagni in Gissi, about an hour southeast of Fara San Martino, sets a standard for artisanal varieties. Although the brand was purchased by another local pastificio, Nonna Luisa, three years ago, Gianfranco is still chief pasta maker at the factory, which has changed little since his father opened it in the Thirties. But Gianfranco considers the real founder of his family&aposs pasta dynasty to be his great-great-grandfather. Back in the 1870s, Old Zaccagni had his own farm, but he also tended those of his neighbors, the signori who lived in Rome, Naples and Spoleto and came to Abruzzo in horse-drawn coaches to inspect their properties and hunt. Zaccagni entertained his visitors with handmade laganelle in sagne, typical Abruzzese pastas similar to pappardelle, and then dried some for them to take back to the city.

Gianfranco is also a consultant for Nonna Luisa&aposs Due Pastori brand, from a modern, higher-volume operation. Both the old and the new factories produce excellent pasta, and I&aposm hopeful that one day these will be exported to the United States. "When the pasta is good," Gianfranco says proudly, "people note the pasta and not the sauce." And when the pasta is very good, people also note the talent of the cook.

Gianfranco&aposs words made me think of Annina, my family&aposs cook in Abruzzo. I remember that as Uncle Filippo rounded the piazza in the afternoon, Annina would get down to work, with my grandmother orchestrating all the moves. At my signal, Annina would move to the pot, which was large enough to let the pasta swim around but light enough to allow the water to come to a boil quickly. She&aposd add coarse sea salt to the boiling water and then toss in the pasta, giving it a quick stir while my grandmother intoned, "Cover the pot. Cover the pot." Annina let the pasta cook for several minutes, then tasted it a few times to make sure it was al dente before pouring a cup of cold water into the pot to stop the cooking. Armed with thick pot holders, she&aposd race to the sink to drain the pasta, then pour it into a shallow bowl with a layer of sauce covering the bottom. After she had tossed the pasta with more sauce, she&aposd graciously add a small ladle of sauce to the top "for beauty," as my grandmother would say, and perhaps a sprinkling of cheese. The dish wasn&apost elaborate, but it was delicious--dried pasta at its very best.

The following pasta recipes are from cookbook author Anna Teresa Callen and FOOD & WINE Associate Test Kitchen Director Marcia Kiesel.

Text and some recipes by Anna Teresa Callen, a cooking teacher and the author of four cookbooks, including Hrana in Memories of Abruzzo, Italy&aposs Pastoral Land (Macmillan).


The World's Best Pasta

In Italy's little-known Abruzzo, a handful of legendary factories produce extraordinary dried pasta. These eight classic recipes show why it's so good.

COOKING THE PASTA FOR OUR MIDDAY MEAL was a serious matter in Abruzzo, the region of Italy where I grew up. At age five, I was assigned to the pasta watch. Every day at noon I would stand at a strategically placed window and wait for the arrival of Uncle Filippo. The moment he appeared at the corner of the piazza, I would run to the kitchen and order the plunging of the pasta into the boiling water, which stood at the ready.

The pasta going into our pot on most days was the dried type from a local factory. Although Annina, our family cook, would make her own fresh pasta on special occasions (often with a rich, long-simmered ragù or a stuffing), like all Italians she&aposd turn to dried pasta whenever she wanted to toss together a light meal. And Abruzzo produces some of the best dried pasta anywhere--and exports it around the world.

Despite the fame of its pasta, Abruzzo itself is little known. Like most of Italy, this region just east of Rome is packed with vineyards, olive trees, Roman ruins and Romanesque churches. The area along the Adria

tic does attract vacationers to its family-oriented resorts, yet parts of Abruzzo are so pastoral that shepherds still herd their flocks along ancient sheep tracks and heads turn when a tour bus pulls into town. Abruzzo is separated from Rome by the highest peaks of the Apennines, and those mountains explain why the region has had so few visitors (there&aposs now an autostrada from Rome) and also why the pasta is so good (it&aposs made with crisp, clean mountain water).

Recently I made a trip to the town of Fara San Martino, the epicenter of dried pasta in Abruzzo, where pasta factories cluster at the foot of the Maiella Mountains. Some of these plants are large and high tech, producing hundreds of tons of pasta a day others are small-scale operations where workers might stuff packages of spaghetti by hand. Whether the factory is big or little, "the water is the main thing," says Miro Bianchi, a manager at Delverde, which last year exported over 10,000 tons of pasta to America. Ever since Delverde was founded in 1970, the pasta maker has used only water from a local spring. But water is just one of several factors that determine quality. De Cecco, which opened in Fara San Martino in 1887, also credits its special blend of high-gluten semolina flours. The pasta maker, the second biggest in Italy (behind Barilla) and another major exporter, buys its flours from several countries. Combining the different kinds in the right proportions creates the desired aroma, color and consistency.

Abruzzo&aposs large factories turn out delicious pasta that&aposs low-priced and readily available. However, when I want a pasta that has a true wheaty flavor or one that can really grab on to a sauce, I buy the expensive kind produced at smaller, more artisanal operations. The Giuseppe Cocco factory still makes dried pasta the way it did 50 years ago. Machines mix the flour and water in four steps, in a rhythm that approximates hand kneading, then slowly force the dough through perforated bronze dies, or blocks, so that the pasta takes on the dies&apos rough texture. While some large factories blast the pasta with high heat to dry it, the artisanal ones use "solar" temperature, which mimics the gentle drying that would occur if the pasta were set out in the sun.

The pasta of Gianfranco Zaccagni in Gissi, about an hour southeast of Fara San Martino, sets a standard for artisanal varieties. Although the brand was purchased by another local pastificio, Nonna Luisa, three years ago, Gianfranco is still chief pasta maker at the factory, which has changed little since his father opened it in the Thirties. But Gianfranco considers the real founder of his family&aposs pasta dynasty to be his great-great-grandfather. Back in the 1870s, Old Zaccagni had his own farm, but he also tended those of his neighbors, the signori who lived in Rome, Naples and Spoleto and came to Abruzzo in horse-drawn coaches to inspect their properties and hunt. Zaccagni entertained his visitors with handmade laganelle in sagne, typical Abruzzese pastas similar to pappardelle, and then dried some for them to take back to the city.

Gianfranco is also a consultant for Nonna Luisa&aposs Due Pastori brand, from a modern, higher-volume operation. Both the old and the new factories produce excellent pasta, and I&aposm hopeful that one day these will be exported to the United States. "When the pasta is good," Gianfranco says proudly, "people note the pasta and not the sauce." And when the pasta is very good, people also note the talent of the cook.

Gianfranco&aposs words made me think of Annina, my family&aposs cook in Abruzzo. I remember that as Uncle Filippo rounded the piazza in the afternoon, Annina would get down to work, with my grandmother orchestrating all the moves. At my signal, Annina would move to the pot, which was large enough to let the pasta swim around but light enough to allow the water to come to a boil quickly. She&aposd add coarse sea salt to the boiling water and then toss in the pasta, giving it a quick stir while my grandmother intoned, "Cover the pot. Cover the pot." Annina let the pasta cook for several minutes, then tasted it a few times to make sure it was al dente before pouring a cup of cold water into the pot to stop the cooking. Armed with thick pot holders, she&aposd race to the sink to drain the pasta, then pour it into a shallow bowl with a layer of sauce covering the bottom. After she had tossed the pasta with more sauce, she&aposd graciously add a small ladle of sauce to the top "for beauty," as my grandmother would say, and perhaps a sprinkling of cheese. The dish wasn&apost elaborate, but it was delicious--dried pasta at its very best.

The following pasta recipes are from cookbook author Anna Teresa Callen and FOOD & WINE Associate Test Kitchen Director Marcia Kiesel.

Text and some recipes by Anna Teresa Callen, a cooking teacher and the author of four cookbooks, including Hrana in Memories of Abruzzo, Italy&aposs Pastoral Land (Macmillan).


The World's Best Pasta

In Italy's little-known Abruzzo, a handful of legendary factories produce extraordinary dried pasta. These eight classic recipes show why it's so good.

COOKING THE PASTA FOR OUR MIDDAY MEAL was a serious matter in Abruzzo, the region of Italy where I grew up. At age five, I was assigned to the pasta watch. Every day at noon I would stand at a strategically placed window and wait for the arrival of Uncle Filippo. The moment he appeared at the corner of the piazza, I would run to the kitchen and order the plunging of the pasta into the boiling water, which stood at the ready.

The pasta going into our pot on most days was the dried type from a local factory. Although Annina, our family cook, would make her own fresh pasta on special occasions (often with a rich, long-simmered ragù or a stuffing), like all Italians she&aposd turn to dried pasta whenever she wanted to toss together a light meal. And Abruzzo produces some of the best dried pasta anywhere--and exports it around the world.

Despite the fame of its pasta, Abruzzo itself is little known. Like most of Italy, this region just east of Rome is packed with vineyards, olive trees, Roman ruins and Romanesque churches. The area along the Adria

tic does attract vacationers to its family-oriented resorts, yet parts of Abruzzo are so pastoral that shepherds still herd their flocks along ancient sheep tracks and heads turn when a tour bus pulls into town. Abruzzo is separated from Rome by the highest peaks of the Apennines, and those mountains explain why the region has had so few visitors (there&aposs now an autostrada from Rome) and also why the pasta is so good (it&aposs made with crisp, clean mountain water).

Recently I made a trip to the town of Fara San Martino, the epicenter of dried pasta in Abruzzo, where pasta factories cluster at the foot of the Maiella Mountains. Some of these plants are large and high tech, producing hundreds of tons of pasta a day others are small-scale operations where workers might stuff packages of spaghetti by hand. Whether the factory is big or little, "the water is the main thing," says Miro Bianchi, a manager at Delverde, which last year exported over 10,000 tons of pasta to America. Ever since Delverde was founded in 1970, the pasta maker has used only water from a local spring. But water is just one of several factors that determine quality. De Cecco, which opened in Fara San Martino in 1887, also credits its special blend of high-gluten semolina flours. The pasta maker, the second biggest in Italy (behind Barilla) and another major exporter, buys its flours from several countries. Combining the different kinds in the right proportions creates the desired aroma, color and consistency.

Abruzzo&aposs large factories turn out delicious pasta that&aposs low-priced and readily available. However, when I want a pasta that has a true wheaty flavor or one that can really grab on to a sauce, I buy the expensive kind produced at smaller, more artisanal operations. The Giuseppe Cocco factory still makes dried pasta the way it did 50 years ago. Machines mix the flour and water in four steps, in a rhythm that approximates hand kneading, then slowly force the dough through perforated bronze dies, or blocks, so that the pasta takes on the dies&apos rough texture. While some large factories blast the pasta with high heat to dry it, the artisanal ones use "solar" temperature, which mimics the gentle drying that would occur if the pasta were set out in the sun.

The pasta of Gianfranco Zaccagni in Gissi, about an hour southeast of Fara San Martino, sets a standard for artisanal varieties. Although the brand was purchased by another local pastificio, Nonna Luisa, three years ago, Gianfranco is still chief pasta maker at the factory, which has changed little since his father opened it in the Thirties. But Gianfranco considers the real founder of his family&aposs pasta dynasty to be his great-great-grandfather. Back in the 1870s, Old Zaccagni had his own farm, but he also tended those of his neighbors, the signori who lived in Rome, Naples and Spoleto and came to Abruzzo in horse-drawn coaches to inspect their properties and hunt. Zaccagni entertained his visitors with handmade laganelle in sagne, typical Abruzzese pastas similar to pappardelle, and then dried some for them to take back to the city.

Gianfranco is also a consultant for Nonna Luisa&aposs Due Pastori brand, from a modern, higher-volume operation. Both the old and the new factories produce excellent pasta, and I&aposm hopeful that one day these will be exported to the United States. "When the pasta is good," Gianfranco says proudly, "people note the pasta and not the sauce." And when the pasta is very good, people also note the talent of the cook.

Gianfranco&aposs words made me think of Annina, my family&aposs cook in Abruzzo. I remember that as Uncle Filippo rounded the piazza in the afternoon, Annina would get down to work, with my grandmother orchestrating all the moves. At my signal, Annina would move to the pot, which was large enough to let the pasta swim around but light enough to allow the water to come to a boil quickly. She&aposd add coarse sea salt to the boiling water and then toss in the pasta, giving it a quick stir while my grandmother intoned, "Cover the pot. Cover the pot." Annina let the pasta cook for several minutes, then tasted it a few times to make sure it was al dente before pouring a cup of cold water into the pot to stop the cooking. Armed with thick pot holders, she&aposd race to the sink to drain the pasta, then pour it into a shallow bowl with a layer of sauce covering the bottom. After she had tossed the pasta with more sauce, she&aposd graciously add a small ladle of sauce to the top "for beauty," as my grandmother would say, and perhaps a sprinkling of cheese. The dish wasn&apost elaborate, but it was delicious--dried pasta at its very best.

The following pasta recipes are from cookbook author Anna Teresa Callen and FOOD & WINE Associate Test Kitchen Director Marcia Kiesel.

Text and some recipes by Anna Teresa Callen, a cooking teacher and the author of four cookbooks, including Hrana in Memories of Abruzzo, Italy&aposs Pastoral Land (Macmillan).


The World's Best Pasta

In Italy's little-known Abruzzo, a handful of legendary factories produce extraordinary dried pasta. These eight classic recipes show why it's so good.

COOKING THE PASTA FOR OUR MIDDAY MEAL was a serious matter in Abruzzo, the region of Italy where I grew up. At age five, I was assigned to the pasta watch. Every day at noon I would stand at a strategically placed window and wait for the arrival of Uncle Filippo. The moment he appeared at the corner of the piazza, I would run to the kitchen and order the plunging of the pasta into the boiling water, which stood at the ready.

The pasta going into our pot on most days was the dried type from a local factory. Although Annina, our family cook, would make her own fresh pasta on special occasions (often with a rich, long-simmered ragù or a stuffing), like all Italians she&aposd turn to dried pasta whenever she wanted to toss together a light meal. And Abruzzo produces some of the best dried pasta anywhere--and exports it around the world.

Despite the fame of its pasta, Abruzzo itself is little known. Like most of Italy, this region just east of Rome is packed with vineyards, olive trees, Roman ruins and Romanesque churches. The area along the Adria

tic does attract vacationers to its family-oriented resorts, yet parts of Abruzzo are so pastoral that shepherds still herd their flocks along ancient sheep tracks and heads turn when a tour bus pulls into town. Abruzzo is separated from Rome by the highest peaks of the Apennines, and those mountains explain why the region has had so few visitors (there&aposs now an autostrada from Rome) and also why the pasta is so good (it&aposs made with crisp, clean mountain water).

Recently I made a trip to the town of Fara San Martino, the epicenter of dried pasta in Abruzzo, where pasta factories cluster at the foot of the Maiella Mountains. Some of these plants are large and high tech, producing hundreds of tons of pasta a day others are small-scale operations where workers might stuff packages of spaghetti by hand. Whether the factory is big or little, "the water is the main thing," says Miro Bianchi, a manager at Delverde, which last year exported over 10,000 tons of pasta to America. Ever since Delverde was founded in 1970, the pasta maker has used only water from a local spring. But water is just one of several factors that determine quality. De Cecco, which opened in Fara San Martino in 1887, also credits its special blend of high-gluten semolina flours. The pasta maker, the second biggest in Italy (behind Barilla) and another major exporter, buys its flours from several countries. Combining the different kinds in the right proportions creates the desired aroma, color and consistency.

Abruzzo&aposs large factories turn out delicious pasta that&aposs low-priced and readily available. However, when I want a pasta that has a true wheaty flavor or one that can really grab on to a sauce, I buy the expensive kind produced at smaller, more artisanal operations. The Giuseppe Cocco factory still makes dried pasta the way it did 50 years ago. Machines mix the flour and water in four steps, in a rhythm that approximates hand kneading, then slowly force the dough through perforated bronze dies, or blocks, so that the pasta takes on the dies&apos rough texture. While some large factories blast the pasta with high heat to dry it, the artisanal ones use "solar" temperature, which mimics the gentle drying that would occur if the pasta were set out in the sun.

The pasta of Gianfranco Zaccagni in Gissi, about an hour southeast of Fara San Martino, sets a standard for artisanal varieties. Although the brand was purchased by another local pastificio, Nonna Luisa, three years ago, Gianfranco is still chief pasta maker at the factory, which has changed little since his father opened it in the Thirties. But Gianfranco considers the real founder of his family&aposs pasta dynasty to be his great-great-grandfather. Back in the 1870s, Old Zaccagni had his own farm, but he also tended those of his neighbors, the signori who lived in Rome, Naples and Spoleto and came to Abruzzo in horse-drawn coaches to inspect their properties and hunt. Zaccagni entertained his visitors with handmade laganelle in sagne, typical Abruzzese pastas similar to pappardelle, and then dried some for them to take back to the city.

Gianfranco is also a consultant for Nonna Luisa&aposs Due Pastori brand, from a modern, higher-volume operation. Both the old and the new factories produce excellent pasta, and I&aposm hopeful that one day these will be exported to the United States. "When the pasta is good," Gianfranco says proudly, "people note the pasta and not the sauce." And when the pasta is very good, people also note the talent of the cook.

Gianfranco&aposs words made me think of Annina, my family&aposs cook in Abruzzo. I remember that as Uncle Filippo rounded the piazza in the afternoon, Annina would get down to work, with my grandmother orchestrating all the moves. At my signal, Annina would move to the pot, which was large enough to let the pasta swim around but light enough to allow the water to come to a boil quickly. She&aposd add coarse sea salt to the boiling water and then toss in the pasta, giving it a quick stir while my grandmother intoned, "Cover the pot. Cover the pot." Annina let the pasta cook for several minutes, then tasted it a few times to make sure it was al dente before pouring a cup of cold water into the pot to stop the cooking. Armed with thick pot holders, she&aposd race to the sink to drain the pasta, then pour it into a shallow bowl with a layer of sauce covering the bottom. After she had tossed the pasta with more sauce, she&aposd graciously add a small ladle of sauce to the top "for beauty," as my grandmother would say, and perhaps a sprinkling of cheese. The dish wasn&apost elaborate, but it was delicious--dried pasta at its very best.

The following pasta recipes are from cookbook author Anna Teresa Callen and FOOD & WINE Associate Test Kitchen Director Marcia Kiesel.

Text and some recipes by Anna Teresa Callen, a cooking teacher and the author of four cookbooks, including Hrana in Memories of Abruzzo, Italy&aposs Pastoral Land (Macmillan).


The World's Best Pasta

In Italy's little-known Abruzzo, a handful of legendary factories produce extraordinary dried pasta. These eight classic recipes show why it's so good.

COOKING THE PASTA FOR OUR MIDDAY MEAL was a serious matter in Abruzzo, the region of Italy where I grew up. At age five, I was assigned to the pasta watch. Every day at noon I would stand at a strategically placed window and wait for the arrival of Uncle Filippo. The moment he appeared at the corner of the piazza, I would run to the kitchen and order the plunging of the pasta into the boiling water, which stood at the ready.

The pasta going into our pot on most days was the dried type from a local factory. Although Annina, our family cook, would make her own fresh pasta on special occasions (often with a rich, long-simmered ragù or a stuffing), like all Italians she&aposd turn to dried pasta whenever she wanted to toss together a light meal. And Abruzzo produces some of the best dried pasta anywhere--and exports it around the world.

Despite the fame of its pasta, Abruzzo itself is little known. Like most of Italy, this region just east of Rome is packed with vineyards, olive trees, Roman ruins and Romanesque churches. The area along the Adria

tic does attract vacationers to its family-oriented resorts, yet parts of Abruzzo are so pastoral that shepherds still herd their flocks along ancient sheep tracks and heads turn when a tour bus pulls into town. Abruzzo is separated from Rome by the highest peaks of the Apennines, and those mountains explain why the region has had so few visitors (there&aposs now an autostrada from Rome) and also why the pasta is so good (it&aposs made with crisp, clean mountain water).

Recently I made a trip to the town of Fara San Martino, the epicenter of dried pasta in Abruzzo, where pasta factories cluster at the foot of the Maiella Mountains. Some of these plants are large and high tech, producing hundreds of tons of pasta a day others are small-scale operations where workers might stuff packages of spaghetti by hand. Whether the factory is big or little, "the water is the main thing," says Miro Bianchi, a manager at Delverde, which last year exported over 10,000 tons of pasta to America. Ever since Delverde was founded in 1970, the pasta maker has used only water from a local spring. But water is just one of several factors that determine quality. De Cecco, which opened in Fara San Martino in 1887, also credits its special blend of high-gluten semolina flours. The pasta maker, the second biggest in Italy (behind Barilla) and another major exporter, buys its flours from several countries. Combining the different kinds in the right proportions creates the desired aroma, color and consistency.

Abruzzo&aposs large factories turn out delicious pasta that&aposs low-priced and readily available. However, when I want a pasta that has a true wheaty flavor or one that can really grab on to a sauce, I buy the expensive kind produced at smaller, more artisanal operations. The Giuseppe Cocco factory still makes dried pasta the way it did 50 years ago. Machines mix the flour and water in four steps, in a rhythm that approximates hand kneading, then slowly force the dough through perforated bronze dies, or blocks, so that the pasta takes on the dies&apos rough texture. While some large factories blast the pasta with high heat to dry it, the artisanal ones use "solar" temperature, which mimics the gentle drying that would occur if the pasta were set out in the sun.

The pasta of Gianfranco Zaccagni in Gissi, about an hour southeast of Fara San Martino, sets a standard for artisanal varieties. Although the brand was purchased by another local pastificio, Nonna Luisa, three years ago, Gianfranco is still chief pasta maker at the factory, which has changed little since his father opened it in the Thirties. But Gianfranco considers the real founder of his family&aposs pasta dynasty to be his great-great-grandfather. Back in the 1870s, Old Zaccagni had his own farm, but he also tended those of his neighbors, the signori who lived in Rome, Naples and Spoleto and came to Abruzzo in horse-drawn coaches to inspect their properties and hunt. Zaccagni entertained his visitors with handmade laganelle in sagne, typical Abruzzese pastas similar to pappardelle, and then dried some for them to take back to the city.

Gianfranco is also a consultant for Nonna Luisa&aposs Due Pastori brand, from a modern, higher-volume operation. Both the old and the new factories produce excellent pasta, and I&aposm hopeful that one day these will be exported to the United States. "When the pasta is good," Gianfranco says proudly, "people note the pasta and not the sauce." And when the pasta is very good, people also note the talent of the cook.

Gianfranco&aposs words made me think of Annina, my family&aposs cook in Abruzzo. I remember that as Uncle Filippo rounded the piazza in the afternoon, Annina would get down to work, with my grandmother orchestrating all the moves. At my signal, Annina would move to the pot, which was large enough to let the pasta swim around but light enough to allow the water to come to a boil quickly. She&aposd add coarse sea salt to the boiling water and then toss in the pasta, giving it a quick stir while my grandmother intoned, "Cover the pot. Cover the pot." Annina let the pasta cook for several minutes, then tasted it a few times to make sure it was al dente before pouring a cup of cold water into the pot to stop the cooking. Armed with thick pot holders, she&aposd race to the sink to drain the pasta, then pour it into a shallow bowl with a layer of sauce covering the bottom. After she had tossed the pasta with more sauce, she&aposd graciously add a small ladle of sauce to the top "for beauty," as my grandmother would say, and perhaps a sprinkling of cheese. The dish wasn&apost elaborate, but it was delicious--dried pasta at its very best.

The following pasta recipes are from cookbook author Anna Teresa Callen and FOOD & WINE Associate Test Kitchen Director Marcia Kiesel.

Text and some recipes by Anna Teresa Callen, a cooking teacher and the author of four cookbooks, including Hrana in Memories of Abruzzo, Italy&aposs Pastoral Land (Macmillan).


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Komentarji:

  1. Kaedee

    Ste pravice.

  2. Faesida

    Kakšne potrebne besede ... Super, izjemna ideja

  3. Avenelle

    Mislim, da nimate prav. Pogovorimo.

  4. Kadeer

    Hvala za vašo pomoč pri tej zadevi, bi si želel tudi nekaj, kar lahko pomagate?

  5. Lono

    Čestitam, pravkar ste imeli briljantno misel.

  6. Darryn

    Bravo, remarkable phrase and is duly



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